More gentle translucencies. This time in unexpected specific manners. Layering that interlaces boyish relax with ladylike sex.
Seen at Anne Valérie Hash at Paris FW, photos via style.com

Words: Deborah Latouche and Jennifer McNulty

Kinder Aggugini was my  first show of the day, considering this is only his second season at London fashion week he really does have all the journalists cooing that he is the “One to watch”. I have a preoccupation with regards to whether clothes are made well and Kinder definitely has a top production company behind him, I guess I should not be surprised; as he has worked for masters such as – Galliano, Westwood and Versace.

His collection comprised of Napoleonic references in the form of rigid military 19^th century coats and uniforms mixed with super soft printed silk dresses.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

The dark occult themes continue for A/W 2010 with Maria Francesca Pepe’s fashion presentation. Reminscent of 1990’s Gucci, Pepe showed a predominantly black collection with structured navel slashed blazers, chainlink trousers, gold plated tribal jewellery, crucifix collars and wolf biker-style motifs adorning belts and printed onto the back of jackets. Interestingly, the same leather thigh high leg warmers, first seen at the Paul Costelloe show were also present here. Weirdly, all the models had literally the same face, had they not been close enough to touch, I would have suspected some computer trickery. Perhaps it was just witchcraft coming into play.

photos: Tilly Pearman

At Fashion East the one designer that stood out to me was not on the catwalk, the architectural footwear of Chau Har Lee was displayed in the arches as we walked in to the show.

This recent graduate from the Royal College of Art has already been approached by a number companies to design their footwear ranges and You can see why, using wood steel and acrylic her unique take on shoes is truly original.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

Description of the season so far, comes courtesy of Bryce Aime who declared, ‘mummification is the new black.’ With a collection entitled ‘Egyptology’, I was half expecting white bandages and severe black bob haircuts to walk down the catwalk. Thankfully Aime steered clear of clichés and instead interpreted Ancient Egypt by channelling ceremonial priestesses with purple digital printed catsuits under wine red and black structured, curved hem jackets and dresses. Mythology and fantasy is establishing itself as a clear trend for Autumn / Winter 2010.

Photo: Tilly Pearman

Although all of the collections we see this week would have been complete before the untimely death of Alexander McQueen, in a fitting tribute, his influence this season was everywhere. From Bryce Aime’s digital prints to Iris van Herpen’s twisted butterfly dresses and statement shoes.
Kicking off her show with strobe lighting, Iris van Herpen presented a stunning, dramatic collection of metallic gold, nude and black leather strips, twisted and knotted to beautifully create armour-esque dresses. The high level of workmanship was extremely impressive and the execution of the show had enough drama to fully showcase these designs.

Photos: Simon Ackerman

Mark Fast and Mary Katranzou showed back to back in the Top shop venue.

Mark Fast continued to show a few oversized models, a decision which had all the papers talking last season. In my opinion it worked well with some of the girls but not all, you still have to be able to walk well with you head held high. But it is great to see someone paying attention to the fact that ‘real’ women are not a size zero. Fast considers knitting an art form and as such pays immaculate attention to details and creates some intricate figure hugging pieces.  His collection was predominantly bronzes and silvers, colours that came from his inspiration, the work of Romanian sculptor Demetre Chiparus.

Photos: Jimmy James

Mary Katranzou’s collection was based on 18^th century portraiture, there were quite a few new elements added to this collection, an introduction of outer wear and not just digital print as the key embellishment but also swarovski crystals, lace and organza ruffles. Katranzou also continued to make elaborate metal stand out jewellery that completely enhanced the collection.

Photos: Jimmy James

Words: Jennifer McNulty and Deborah Latouche

I have to admit, I didn’t think I would enjoy the opening show of London Fashion Week but Paul Costelloe excitingly surprised me by presenting an eclectic collection that drew inspiration from a range of eras. 1950’s silhouettes – big shoulders and volumous bubble skirts – were mixed with 90’s waistcoat / rouched skirt combo’s and the bold pink cocktail dress of the finale was 100% 80’s. Throw in some pirate-esque menswear, tweed and military style coats and the collection is a real melting pot of ideas.

Holding it all together was the metallic colour palette. Metallic browns and blacks provided the base, with flashes of blues and purples throughout. All the models wore very interesting long leather thigh-high leg warmers, which at first glance looked like boots. Overall, a very wearable collection.

Photos: Jimmy James

Self styled ‘hair sculptor’ Charlie le Mindu this season was having his second catwalk show as part of the On|Off schedule. He was inspired by cults, religious secrets and the occult, which translated as human hair cut to look like fur, huge cage like structures and hair hats adorned with crucifixes and Faberge eggs. Everything was black, dramatic and successfully captured the voodoo spirit of his inspiration.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

Every season has a name to watch, the new wonder-kid on the block, this time round it was the turn of Central Saint Martin’s graduate, David Koma. His profile has risen considerably in recent months due to a host of celebrities, including Beyoncé and Cheryl Cole wearing his designs. There were high hopes for his A/W 10 collection and he didn’t disappoint. The body con dresses of previous seasons remained, for A/W, Koma was inspired by early 20th century graphic artists such as Fortunato Depero and Geoffrey Beene. They used diagonal and rapid strokes, which Koma translated bu giving us a black / nude / grey mix of dresses, which brought fireworks and crackers to mind with their zig-zag cuts and hemlines.

Photo:

For someone who is a new face to London fashion week Hakaan Yildirim really did pull in the crowd, he had kate moss on the front row and big models such as Natalia Vodianova on the catwalk.

Edward Enniful masterfully styled his immaculate sculptural pieces, the collection had a futuristic edge mixed with 90’s body con as Hakaan skilfully manipulated felt and leather into figure hugging dresses.

This show wowed me  - by far the best of the day!

Photos: Deborah Latouche

New for this season, the British Fashion Council have installed a digital space; fashion films have long been touted as the future of the industry and viewing Craig Lawrence’s A/W collection on this medium, it’s easy to see why.
The fashion film allows for a high level of styling (styled by Katie Shillingford) and production, to showcase the clothes at their best, as well as displaying how they fit and move on the body. There is also the opportunity to establish the atmosphere of the collection and better convey the inspiration. Plus there is no clamouring for a seat and waiting ages for the delayed show to start, as the film is played on a loop. Lawrence’s stunning intricate gold dresses, made from woven and draped metallic yarns are perhaps only for the very fashion confident but wonderful to view nonetheless

Bora Aksu presented a collection of well-executed tulip dresses in shades of pale grey, pink, baby blue, black and copper tones.  His signature romantic style worked well with his theme of Marie Antoinette meets Edward Scissor hands, he layers silks and chiffon over textured metallic wool, creating lavishly embellished dresses worn over distressed black leggings adding a edgy gothic feel.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

New-ish single from Bonobo (it was released in September).
Andreya Triana who sang vocals on the great Flying Lotus track, Tea Leaf Dancer, is releasing her own LP on XL records very soon.

Particular gentle translucencies, deconstruction rosé and many one-piece suits as proposal by the queen äh king of less.
Lovely, Jil Sander by Raf Simons.

Seen at Milan FW via style.com

We want the rare and the unique, we like the stuff that´s difficult to get. Instead of going into a deep psychological analyze of why we want as much infrequency as possible in our lives lets just savour it in the perfect situation: TOY MADE ONE

Toy is an independent business that works collaboratively with a hand picked selection of artists across product, motion, print and screen.
Next Friday Toy celebrates its 1^st year anniversary with an 6 hours lasting exhibition. For the special occasion they brought their favourite, un-shown art of last year from Manchester, UK to Berlins UNDPLUS Collab Room. Accompanied by Special Guest Djs´s “Stop Making Sense” we are definitely not going to miss this one.

The flyer design is a thrill of anticipation for my eyes!

February 26^th, 4-10pm
UNDPLUS Collab Room, Torstr. 66

Gazelle feat. Weez – Just Now – filmed by Simon Steuri

“In this modern day satire, while the west is giving money as aid to Africa countless of corrupt African rulers return to the source to exchange the same money for luxury goods.

During Art Basel 2009 Gazelle staged a public performance art piece that commented on this situation in the hope that the wealthy of the world that visits the Art Fair had something to think about (…)”

Last weekend saw the fabulous Frisbeer Freestyle Frisbee Tournament where players from around the world met up in the cold Eastern European city of Prague. The city was cold but the Czech people are so warm and welcoming that you forget how cold you are. This mid-winter tournament is in its third year and the guys showed again how to make an indoor Frisbee tournament. Aside from displaying amazing Frisbee skills, players also demonstrated impressive drinking skills in order to keep their bodies hydrated from the physical exertion.

It´s official!

Slowly but surely snow and ice, which have been reigning over Berlin during the last month, are melting. We welcome the first sunbeams and singing birds with a big smile and say bye, bye snow, see you later this year.

Before we all go and throw some discs in Bikinis on a beach here evidences of what FSM and Berlin Jammers have been up to during winter. That’s the real spirit!

Bibi is wearing jacket, shorts & leggings by Nikita.

Sasch is wearing Shirt & Hoodie by Ecko Unlimited, shorts by Nike, shoes by Adidas.

Rockton is wearing shoes by Kangaroos & vintage outfit. Ozzy is catching the FSM disc designed by Eley Kishimoto. Bags by Eastpack & Eastpack by Christopher Shannon.

Toby Cannone is wearing shorts & shoes by Kangaroos, vintage jacket by Adidas.

Photography: Jason McGlade
Styling: Nele Schrinner

“There Is Love In You” is the new LP,  on Domino Records, by Four Tet aka Kieran Hebden – its a great album, effortlessly mixing gentle ambient folky melodies with pre/post club tracks.

The featured video is presumably named after Plastic People, the brilliant club in east London where he’s had a residency for the last couple of years (it finished last December).